Sunday, October 16, 2011

Summer Holiday (3/3) New Orleans

We reached New Orleans around 8PM and checked into the Holiday Inn near Canal Street, where we met Caren's friends Dee and Amanda. There was no rest for the wicked as we quickly changed and headed into town. Dinner was red beans and rice with some nice fruit beer from Abita (one of America's best micro-brews and local to Louisiana), and then we hit Burbon street for some drinks and music:

Left to Right: Amanda, Caren, Dee and Me

Flaming Pianos at 'Howl at the Moon'

After a big night out, we needed to recharge, so Dee took us on a short tram ride to a great little restaurant in mid-town called Katie's Sunsday Brunch. The food was excellent; especially the savory Beignets, and the bottomless mimosas weren't bad either!

Dee, Caren and Amanda on a Street Car

Katie's: an Excellent Spot for Brunch

We spent the rest of Sunday exploring the French quarter and walking along the banks of the Mississippi River:
A Mississippi Steam Boat

Jackson Square: the Heart of the French Quarter

Delicious Food at the French Market

French Quarter Streets (1/2)

French Quarter Streets (2/2)

We also visited the New Orleans museum near Jackson Square, which has an excellent exhibit on Hurricane Katrina. The exhibit does a good job of explaining the science of hurricanes and how and why so many people died when Katrina hit. Unfortunately, even now, many of the problems discussed in the exhibit remain unfixed. Perhaps the most poignant display was a real garage door covered with the paint marking of the rescue workers:

Sad Artifacts from Hurricane Katrina

On our next night out in New Orleans was all Cajun. First we had some pretty good Cajun food and more Abita Beers at Mulate's in the Business District, and then we went to watch some Cajun bands on Burbon Street. The music was great, and as you can see the audience got really involved:

A Full House for Cajun Food at Mulate's

A Good Cajun Band on Bourbon Street

Amanda and Dee Take Over the Washboard

The following day Amanda and Dee had to leave for Kentucky and Ireland, so it was just Caren and me for the next few days, which we mostly spent relaxing and taking in the sights, from cemeteries to historic architecture:

The Cemeteries are a Common Stop on New Orleans Tours

Due to Flooding, Everyone in New Orleans is Entombed not Buried

Historic Tombs, including Homer Plessy

Some Graves are used for Voodoo Rituals

Of course, we also spent a lot of time eating and drinking, including a fancy dinner and nice bottle of Sauvignon Blanc at Emeril's in the Business District. The following day, we had an even better lunch at the historic Mother's restaurant, on the edge of the Business District, and of course, not trip to New Orleans would be complete without a hurricane at Pat O'Brian's, which is a lovely place to escape for a while from the hustle and bustle of the French Quarter:

Canal Street at Sunset on the way to Emeril's

Caren Has Steak with Shepherd's Pie at Emeril's

Pat O'Brian's Courtyard

One Last Hurricane for the Road

New Orleans was, as always, awesome. I can't wait to go back.

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Summer Holiday (2/3) Amtrak Crescent

Sorry for the long delay between these posts! Since we arrived in Leuven we have had lots of stuff to arrange (but that will be the subject of a new post).

The second leg of our summer holiday was a 1,400 mile, 30 hour train journey from New York City to New Orleans on the Amtrak Crescent. I think that long distance American trains are very underrated. They may not be fast or punctual, but they are quiet, cheap and you get to see some spectacular scenery.

We boarded the Crescent in New York City at Penn station around 2PM. We had a 'Viewliner Roomette', which is a small two-person cabin containing two seats, table, power outlets, sink and toilet. At night the room converts to a pair of single bunk beds. Because the room is small and the angle tight, its really hard to take a good photo of, so here's Amtrak's stock images:

 Day in the Roomette

 Night in the Roomette

Along with the room facilities, there are also some communal facilities on the Crescent. Each sleeper carriage has a shower, ice machine, coffee machine and a drinks station (which meant that we were able to keep a bottle of wine on ice in our cabin sink) and the train also has a dining car and snack car. If you are travelling in a sleeper-cabin, then your meals are included with your ticket. Passengers are seated together so that you'll share a table with other diners, which I think adds to the experience of a long train journey. By early evening we were sitting in the dining car, for dinner and watching the Washington sights pass by while chatting with some fellow passengers:

 Browsing the Menu in our Room

The Dining Car

Darkness fell as we rolled south through Virginia and one of the conductors made up our bunk beds. Despite the sounding of train horn, we fell asleep pretty quickly and woke up shortly after sunrise an hour north of Atlanta and one hour behind schedule.

Keeping People Waiting

After a cooked breakfast and a few strong coffees we returned to our room, where we read, worked and watched the scenery pass by. The further south we went, the more beautiful the countryside became.

Forests

Lakes

As we passed the Louisiana state line, it was growing late in the evening and the sun was setting as we reached lake Ponchatrain which offered the most spectacular views of the trip:

Sunset near the Louisiana State Line

Lake Ponchatrain (1/3)

Lake Ponchatrain (2/3)

Lake Ponchatrain (3/3)

I don't think that the photos could ever do the experience of crossing lake Ponchatrain at sunset justice; because its not just the view that is really cool, its the feeling. As you travel across the low causeway over the lake, you can't see any land, so it looks just like the train is flying across the surface of the sea, which is weird but very cool. Finally around 9PM and roughly an hour behind schedule we arrived at New Orleans Union station, ready for our first night out in the Big Easy.